Sorrento and Positano Guide: Where to Stay, Eat, and Escape the Crowds
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If Rome is the heart of Italy, Sorrento is its deep, sun-drenched breath. Stepping off the train and smelling the salt air, the frantic energy of the city finally began to melt away.
We spent two days based in a beautiful apartment in the center of Sorrento, and while the neighboring towns are often rammed with tourists, Sorrento felt like a place we could truly live.
It’s a town of generous people, hand-crafted salamis, and the kind of coastal views that make you want to miss your flight home. If you’re planning a trip to the Amalfi Coast, here is why Sorrento should be your home base—and exactly where to eat when you get there.
Our morning started with a train ride from Rome to Naples. We organized our pre-paid seats on the Italo train for the 6 of us (€30 each), and once we got to Naples, we grabbed 6 tickets at an automatic machine travelling on the Campania express. This train was packed and not the comfiest.
45 minutes later, we reached Sorrento, luggage in hand, eager to check in to our apartment which was just shy of a 6 minute walk on the main street.
Our Stay
We stayed in a beautiful 3-bedroom apartment off Corso Italia, east of Agruminato Garden. Each room had its own bathroom (which can be difficult to find in certain towns in Italy) and laundry. It also had a small balcony in the kitchen, and the kitchen was equipped with everything we needed to get by for 3 days.
The SpizzichiAMO Experience: A Lesson in Generosity
We set out in search of food and discovered the beautiful Piazza Angelina Lauro just three blocks to the west. There, we stumbled upon SpizzichiAMO. Little did we know that this would be our first lunch in Sorrento and the highlight of our entire coastal stay. The small space had only a few tables inside, a counter bar at the entrance, and additional tables and chairs outside in the garden across the street. The restaurant is owned by a man who doesn’t just serve food—he shares his craft.
Everything on the menu looked delicious, and our indecisiveness was getting the best of us. Just then, Salvatore himself came to the rescue. "Let me prepare a platter for you. How does that sound? And what about this dish?" We nodded enthusiastically, our mouths watering in anticipation.
Manuela delivers our drinks, and we immediately begin to relax after our hectic few days in Rome.
Not more than 5 minutes later, out comes a massive tagliero with layers of antipasti. Fresh salumi and mozzarella from Salvatore’s home farm. Fresh bread they’ve made from the morning, and a plate of veggies, both pickled and from the vine.
We’ve landed in heaven without needing a stairway. Sounds of oohs, aahs, and wows. It’s like we’ve never seen food before.
Proudly, Salvatore gives us a quick tour of the board and then leaves us peacefully to devour what’s in front of us.
I know it sounds incredible, and some readers might be thinking, “It’s just a charcuterie board, nothing special, Janel…” But hear me out. There’s something truly remarkable about people who invest their time, effort, and passion into creating an experience for their guests. This is more than just a selection of meats and cheeses; it’s a labour of love.
We said our goodbyes and took a walk through Parco Lauro, across Via Correale and stopped at the edge of the Grand Hotel Europa Palace. Feeling full and sleepy, we sat along their patio and ordered some tea and coffee.
Here, you can see an incredible site. The active volcano, Mount Vesuvius.
While Dad proceed to drift off into a happy-man’s snooze, I walked around the property, checked out the inside bar and went to the restroom to freshen up.
Morning Rituals at Gentile Café
Just a stone's throw from SpizzichiAMO is Gentile Café Sorrento. There’s something about a perfect Italian cappuccino in a bustling local cafe that makes you feel less like a tourist and more like a part of the neighbourhood. It’s the perfect spot to fuel up before heading down to the docks for our cruise to Positano by ferry.
We had a couple of hours, so we enjoyed our pastry, took a walk in Piazza Tasso and checked out all the cute shops along Corso Italia, Via Cesareo and dell’Accademia. I’m not sure if this was considered their shopping or fashion district, but it sure felt like it.
Via Luigi de Maio, arguably the most famous view in all of Sorrento. Standing on the bridge at Piazza Tasso, you’ll look down into this deep, dramatic gorge. This area really captures the cliffside edges you see in all of the Amalfi coast.
My obsession: All of the citrus trees. This was my first time seeing lemon in the wild. On every other street.
The Positano Day Trip: Ferry and Spritzes
By midday, we took the ferry over to Positano for the rest of the afternoon, and I have to be honest: the rumours about the crowds are true. It was packed. Even in the 'off-season,' the narrow vertical streets were teeming with people.
However, Positano is iconic for a reason. We spent our afternoon doing exactly what you should do when the crowds get heavy:
Wander: Explore the boutiques and the hidden staircases.
Snack: Grab something small from a local stall. Hint: Gelato.
Sip: We found a spot to sit, ordered an Aperol Spritz, and watched the world go by. Sometimes the best way to enjoy a touristy spot is to stop trying to 'do' it all and just 'be' there with a drink in hand.
Why Sorrento Stays in Your Heart
While Positano is the postcard, Sorrento is the home. Staying in a charming apartment near the shops and restaurants allowed us to see the city's character. Whether it was the evening passeggiata (traditional stroll) or the ease of the shopping streets, Sorrento has a warmth that I can’t wait to return to.
